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1. &1. F. KNOWLAND.

Tailors Measure.

Patented July 20, 1842.

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J. KNOWLAND AND J. .F. KNO\VLAND, OF BROYVNSBORO, KENTUCKY.

INSTRUMENT FOR MEASURING- GARMENTS.

Specification of Letters Patent No. 2,730, dated July 20, 1842.

To all whom it may concern Be it known that we, JosnrH KNowLAND and JACOB F. KNowLANo, of Brownsboro, in the county of Oldham and State of Kentucky, have invented a new and useful Improvement in the Art ofGarment-Gutting; and we do hereby declare that the following is a full, clear,.and exact description of the construction and operation of the same, reference being had to the annexed drawings, making a part of this specification, in which-- Letter-Al represents a strap of spring steel, brass, orcopper, from 44, to 48 inc-hes in length, and li inches in width, with a small hook at one end, as represented at Figure l, and holes to match the hook, at a distance of one inch apart, extending from, (or near) the center to the other end, as represented at Fig. 2.

B represents an upright 6 inches in length of the same material, and of the same width as that of A. It is attached permanently to A. Six or seven inches from the end represented by Fig. 1, forming a square, it has a channel extending through the center from the upper, to the lower end as represented at Fig. 3. It has also, a square turn to the front at the upper end of about one inch, to the front edge and center of which, is attached a small cord, 8, or 10 inches in length, and at the lower end of the cord is attached a small plummet, as represented at letter I.

C, and D, represent two straps four inches in length, of the same material and about one-half the width as that of A and B, with a hook at the upper end of each turning to the front, as represented at Figs. 4. and 5. The other ends are turned up 1% inches, and made fast at the upper end of the turn by two rivets, forming a slide for the purpose of moving them on the strap A, as the size of the customer may require.

Letters E, and F, represent two straps, 20 inches in length, of the same material, and of the same width, and turned up at the lower ends in the same manner as those of C, and D. They have also a row of holes, from the center to the front ends, to match the hooks on C and D.

Letters G and H, represent two inch-measures, made of narrow linen tape, about 25 inches in length each, the first ends of which are faced on both sides with thin brass or copper, through which, (as near the end as possible) a small round hole is drilled in order to admit a rivet, by which means they are attached to the strap A one on each side of the strap as represented at Fig. 6.

The nature of our invention consists in confining the starting points of the most important measures, to one, and the same point on the customer by means of confining the measuring tapes, to a pivot, which is affiXed to an apparatus, which we call, the pit-'ot-measuring apparatus.

To enable others skilled in the art to use our invention we will proceed to describe its operations and effects.

lVe use principally all the measures which are commonly used by others in garment cutting and can vary our plan of measurement to suit any of the known forms of gar; ments; but in order to prevent the errors arising from the common method of measurement, by the measure slipping under the thumb, or finger, we confine our measures, as before stated to one point, on the customer, from which point all the fitting points of the garment are correctly ascertained.

The pivot measuring apparatus is ap plied for the purpose of measuring the customer in the following manner, viz: Letter A, or main strap, is drawn around the chest, over the coat and made fast by inserting the hook at Fig. 1, into one of the holes repre sented at Fig. 2, drawing it sufficiently tight to prevent it from slipping, the upper edge of the strap touching the armpits, the upright B, in front, and touching the left shoulder, the straps C and D in front, ranging upward, one on the right, and the other on the left breast, each about three inches from the shoulder bones. The straps E, and F, are passed over the shoulders to the front, and made fast to C and D respectively, by inserting the hooks of the one into the holes of the other. These straps are used for the purpose of keeping the main strap A. permanent. The slide ends of the straps E and F should not be more than three inches from the center seam of the back of the customers coat.

The apparatus, being thus applied, the two-inch measures G, and H will be found suspended by a pivot, immediately in front of the left shoulder, and on a line with the lower part of the armpit and the plummet I will show whether the apparatus is properly applied. If the plummet inclines to the front of the channel on B the main strap A, is toohigh behind, and if it inclines to the rear, the strap Will be too high in front. In either case the strap must be regulated, until the plummet hangs perpen dicular With the channel above mentioned.

WVe next proceed to execute the measurement in the following order: Measures No. 1, 2, and 3 are taken With an inch measure separate from'the apparatus, No. 1 from the top of the back,'doWn the back seam to the upper edge of A, No. 2 to the Waist and No. 3 to the length of the skirt. No. 4 is taken from the center seam across the left back, by applying a square to a point on the center seam at a distance of of the length of the measure No. 1 above the upper edge of the main strap, the square ranging down the center seam and across the left back; (it is a point on Which depends the proper location of the sye. This measure will be found, in general from 5 to 7 inches from the center seam. It should be ithin one inch of the probable Width of the back. Measure No. 5, is taken with the measure on the outside of the strap, from the pivot, under the left arm to the point last mentioned on the left back. No.

6 With the inner pivot-measure over the left ures for the sleeves, We take in the usual.

manner.

lVhat We claim as our invention, or improvement; and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is

The plan of measuring the human form, frome one and the same point to the most essential points of measurement as eX- plained in the first clause of this specification.

JOSEPH KNOWLAND. JACOB F. KNOW'LAND.

WVitnesses MILBURN GLOVE, G. W. JEFFRIES.

No. 8, pass the 

